Samoa, Heart of Polynesia
by David Stanley
The islands of Samoa are emerging as an exciting new South
Pacific travel destination between Hawaii and New Zealand. This
"Heart of Polynesia" is politically split into two distinct
entities 80 miles apart. The country Samoa is a former German
colony, captured by New Zealand in 1914 and granted independence
in 1962. In 1997 the name was changed from Western Samoa to Samoa.
American Samoa is the only U.S. territory south of the equator.
Annexed by the United States for use as a naval base in 1900,
the territory no longer has any military significance. Instead,
Pago Pago currently hosts the StarKist and "Chicken of the
Sea" tuna canneries, making it the most important commercial
fishing port under the American flag.
The Samoan environment is tropically lush, with green volcanic
peaks plunging to brilliant coral reefs, an ecotourism paradise
still unspoiled by mass tourism. Visitors often stay in open Samoan
beach houses called fale (pronounced FAH-lay) and adopt the laidback
local lifestyle. Swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, kayaking,
surfing, deep sea fishing, and hiking opportunities are all close
at hand.
Samoan culture is alive and strong, and local traditions can
add another fascinating layer to your travel experience. Most
Samoans are subsistence farmers who reside in small villages governed
by chiefs (matai). The egalitarian ideals of this communal society
place loyalty to family and religion above all. Visitors can sample
this culture at the weekly "fiafia" island night dance
shows staged at most of the larger hotels and beach resorts. Buffets
of authentic Samoan dishes are an essential part of these events.
Samoa's climate is sultry, alternately sunny and rainy, but
always hot and humid. Cooling sea breezes make the shoreline the
best place to be year-round. The nicest months weather-wise are
May to September, "winter" south of the equator. The
rainy season runs from November to April, with increasingly intense
hurricanes sweeping in due to global warming. Yet you can get
long spells of bright sunny weather even during the "rainy"
season, and Samoa's excellent Vailima beer (created by German
brewmasters) tastes best at this time of year.
Most visitors spend their time in independent Samoa, which
is considerably bigger and less expensive than American Samoa.
However the rugged scenic beauty of Tutuila, the main island of
American Samoa, should not be missed. In recent years some of
the most strikingly beautiful parts of the territory have been
incorporated into American Samoa National Park. There's great
hiking on Tutuila and wonderful snorkeling on Ofu in the seldom
visited Manua Group.
Traditional Samoan culture is largely based on oratory, and
it's no accident that several literary legends originated here.
Robert Louis Stevenson spent the last five years of his life in
Samoa and is buried on a hilltop above Apia, the capital. His
mansion is now a museum dedicated to the author. Somerset Maugham's
short story "Rain" about Sadie Thompson and the repressed
missionary thrown together in a guesthouse at Pago Pago, American
Samoa, has been adapted by Hollywood several times. The original
guesthouse still exists, now an upscale restaurant and inn. In
"Tales of the South Pacific," James A. Michener based
the prototype of his character Bloody Mary on an Apia hotelkeeper
named Aggie Grey, whose family still operates Samoa's largest
resorts. Michener's book was later made into the musical "South
Pacific."
Getting to Samoa is easy with direct flights from Hawaii and
Los Angeles on Hawaiian Airlines, Polynesian Airlines, and Air
New Zealand. Local ferries and small commuter planes ply frequently
between the islands, and getting around by public bus or rental
car is no challenge. Visas are not required by most visitors for
entry to either Samoa, although a passport and onward plane ticket
are mandatory. For a selection of photos of the Samoas visit http://www.pacific-pictures.com/samoa/
and for online maps see http://www.mapsouthpacific.com/samoa/
About The Author: David Stanley is the author of Moon Handbooks
South Pacific http://www.southpacific.org/pacific.html which
has a chapter on Samoa. Stanley's online guide to Samoa may be
perused http://www.southpacific.org/text/upolu.html
|
